Crowfoot Mountain Alpine
Climb - Bow
Summit Area
Anytime you add snow and ice to a route up a mountain you
increase the level of risk substantially as compared to doing class 1 and 2
scrambles on dry rock. I do intend to do a few Alpine Climbs as conditions
present themselves. Of course I would always recommend taking a
mountaineering course first or learning from an experienced mountaineer.
Climbing and crossing glaciers is not to be taken lightly and many have met
their demise doing so. Doing all you can to know the route, best times of
the year for ascent, minimizing risk and recognizing possible dangers is
paramount to returning safely. My motto has always been to get to the summit the easiest
and safest way possible. I spend my time in the mountains for the exercise,
the scenery, and just getting away from the big city.
Anyways please enjoy my one alpine climb presented here
as I thoroughly enjoyed Crowfoot Mountain and would do this one again. It is
more of a long scramble but it falls under alpine climbs because you must
cross a glacier for 30-40 minutes. It might be possible to climb the rock
next to the glacier to the upper mountain but there was at least one section
that looked pretty difficult. Only the very experienced scrambler might want
to give it a go.
DISCLAIMER – ALPINE CLIMBS IN THE MOUNTAINS HAVE
INHERENT RISKS AND THE MATERIAL PRESENTED HERE IS INTENDED TO PROVIDE
INFORMATION TO HELP A CLIMBER AVOID ONLY SOME OF THE RISKS. VARIABLE
WEATHER, CHANGING ROUTE CONDITIONS, POOR DECISION MAKING, ILL PREPAREDNESS
ETC. CAN CONTRIBUTE TO SERIOUS INJURY, EVEN DEATH. CLIMBERS USE THIS
MATERIAL AT THEIR OWN RISK AND THE AUTHOR DISCLAIMS ANY LIABILITY FOR
CONSEQUENCES THAT COME ABOUT IN CLIMBING THESE PEAKS.
Approach Photos

Bow Lake and the start of the climb

Looking back at Num-Ti-Jah lodge as
you hike around Bow Lake

Looking back after you cross the chock
stone after 1 hour of hiking

Shortly after the chock stone you go
left up this valley towards Bow Hut

Heading up the valley

Just past this section of trail is the
left turn up the creek

Left turn up this creek, you can see
the false summit in the distance peeking above the trees

Just a minute or two up the creek you
head left on the climbers trail

Once above the trees Bow Hut can be
seen looking back to the west
Route Photos

A view of the glacial moraine route,
head right to the glacier edge then back left to directly below the false summit

Here's a view of the glacier edge as
you traverse along it back to your left to a good bivy spot

A good bivy spot directly below the
false summit

Approximate route only up the glacier
and the false summit

Cramponing up the glacier

Approximate route only up the loose
rocks to gain the false summit

The long but enjoyable ridge walk!

Almost there, just past the high point
in the picture is the summit
Summit Photos

Summit at last, no identifiable
entries in the register for 2007, perhaps some couldn't get open the frozen
summit container, Al warmed it up in his jacket and we signed in, we did
note Granticulus's entry from our attempt last fall

Summit photo looking southwest with
Mt. Balfour in the background

From highway 93 a different look of
the true summit and false summit
Crowfoot Mountain - Bow Summit Area
Mountaineering: Class 3 with Route Finding and Glacier
Crossing, Crampons, Ice Axe, and Rope necessary, Mountaineering training or
going with a person with adequate mountaineering experience is required
Altitude: 3,050 meters / 10,006 ft
Elevation Gain: 3,570 ft, approx 10 km one way 20 km
return
Start Time: if late August or early September 6-8 am
start allows margin of safety or take your headlamp just in case
Ascent Time: 5 to 6 hours, 10-12 hours return
Highlights
This alpine climb is probably one of the most beautiful
and scenic outings you can experience if you are fortunate enough to get a
clear crisp day in late August or early September. It would be only a
scramble but for the 30-40 minutes to climb the glacier. The views on the
upper part of Crowfoot Mountain and the nice ridge walk are quite
spectacular as Bow Hut and the Wapta Icefield is to the west and Mt Hector
is to the southeast.
Getting There
The parking lot for the route to Crowfoot Mountain is
located at the Bow Summit area which is around 44 km north of Lake Louise on
highway 93. This road is the famous Icefield Parkway which goes all the way
to Jasper. Once you reach the Bow Summit area turn left down the road for
Num-Ti-Jah lodge. There is a day parking area and washrooms only 50 yards
from the lodge.
Camping
If you want to get an early start Mosquito Creek Hostel
is only a few kilometers back down the road towards Lake Louise. Lake Louise
also has a Hostel and campground.
Route Description
From the parking lot walk past Num-Ti-Jah lodge and take
the trail that goes counter clockwise around Bow Lake. Just under an hour
walking around the lake brings you to some steps up a steep hill, head up
these steps to a trail junction left goes to Bow Hut and right goes to Bow
Falls. Take the left to Bow Hut and you have to climb over a large chock
stone that goes across the fast moving water coming down the gorge from Bow
Falls (see photo of the chock stone). You’ve covered about 3.6km to this
point. From here the trail after a few minutes heads left up the valley
towards Bow Hut. As you hike up this valley the long ridge of Crowfoot
Mountain is on your left and the Wapta Icefield is on your right.
Basically follow the trail up the valley for approx 2.5 km until you arrive
at the creek flowing from your left into the valley. This is the drainage
for the Crowfoot glacier. Take a left here up the creek and then after just
a couple of minutes you will see the cairn to head left from the creek up a
small climbers trail. This narrow almost overgrown trail will take you
through the trees left of the creek to bypass a bit of steep gorge area.
From here the views open up and you see the glacial moraine, the Crowfoot
glacier and the false summit directly above. The true summit is not in view
until you actually gain the false summit.
As you approach the glacial moraine head up the mounds on
the right side of the creek then follow this hilly moraine until it
gradually curves a bit right. Follow it right up to the edge of the glacier
then follow the terrain at the glacier’s edge as it curves back around
towards the left. The far left of the upper moraine is where you can bivy if
that is your plan or if you are doing the climb all in one day it is the
spot where you can access the glacier to climb directly up to the false
summit. See some of the photos with approximate route drawn on them.
From
the left at the creek it is approximately 2.3 km to the false summit. From
the false summit walking on the ridge to the true summit it is approximately
1.6 km.
As you are now directly below the false summit hike up
along the glacier until you reach an obvious spot to don your crampons and
rope up in order to climb directly up to the rocky
slope below the false summit. Once at the rocky slope you will find that it
is quite steep and loose (quite a bit of hands down climbing). The best
route is directly up to the rocky ledges then traverse and angle up to the
top from here picking your way up the most stable terrain that you can find.
Once on top of the false summit you will see the long but enjoyable ridge
walk that awaits you.